Lower East Side


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by Jessica Whyne

Katz's Delicatessen

photos by Jessica Whyne



	The Lower East Side was a community that was heavily influenced by immigration, especially that of Jews from Europe. The institution of immigration has always had a large effect on communities, and the Lower East Side is no exception. A quasi-modern shtetl, the Lower East Side represented the hopes and dreams of a generation of immigrants desiring a better life for themselves and their children. The community was shaped by the influx of immigrants, and began to reflect their needs and abilities. It also showed the change in thoughts as the population began to be more "American" and less "immigrant".

The eateries of the Lower East Side have retained their prominence and their prestige throughout the years, although many have changed ownership and location several times. The names alone are enough to merit a trip inside—Guss’ Pickles, Kossar’s Bialys, Yonah Schimmel’s Knishes Bakery, Streit’s Matzos, Ratner’s Dairy Restaurant. But possibly the most well known would have to be Katz’s Deli.

Established by a family of Russian immigrants in 1888, Katz’s Delicatessen prides itself on being New York’s "oldest and best delicatessen." Katz’s is located on East Houston, towards the northernmost border of the Lower East Side. A modest building with only a handful of neon signs in the window, Katz’s relishes its history of very important and very hungry clientele. Signs, both inside and outside the deli, proudly announce that there is only one location of Katz’s, which is "known as the best since 1888."

Not only is Katz’s the crème de la crème, it is unique in its layout and service. Upon entering, each patron is handed a raffle-esque ticket, which acts as his or her bill. The counters are specialized, each dedicated to a certain favorite aspect of delis—hot sandwiches, hot dogs, French fries and drinks—and everything is served cafeteria-style (and for a nice tip, you can get some extra slices of meat). Unassuming Formica tables are packed into the large deli, each with as many straight-backed chairs as can fit. For a spacious place, there isn’t a lot of room to maneuver around in.

Possibly the most interesting part is the décor itself. The walls are decorated with pictures of famous people who have visited, and the back room has many neon beer signs from various companies. The front of the store has decorative meats and signs reminding patrons that they can still "Send a salami to your boy in the army!" A paper sign suspended from the ceiling by a string shows you exactly which table Meg Ryan was sitting at during that famous scene from "When Harry Met Sally." Souvenirs are sold by the door.

Katz’s Delicatessen is a modern-day example of the changing face of the Lower East Side. While established by using a Jewish surname and Kosher style foods, the deli is anything but. That doesn’t dissuade possible patrons. In an area that has gone from being Irish to Italian to Jewish to a melting pot, including Hispanics and the encroaching Chinatown, Katz’s has changed with the times. In fact, many of the counter-workers are now Mexican.

A real slice of Americana, Katz’s Deli has a history that would make other restaurants categorically envious. It celebrated its 116th anniversary this year, and shows no signs of closing any time soon. Katz’s Deli helps to keep the Lower East Side on the map, while at the same time attracts locals, tourists, and movie buffs that are eager to try the orgasmic pastrami.